January 06, 2014

DO THE (AMERICAN) HUSTLE!



David O. Russell's latest film, American Hustle is getting rave reviews all round: directing; screenplay; acting and, last but not least--the funky, fun fashions. The movie is set in the dizzying disco era of 1970s New York.






Costumer, Michael Wilkinson used many bona fide vintage designer garments, accessories and footwear: Halston; Gucci; Diane von Furstenberg; Charles Jourdan; I. Magnin--to name a few. He embellished with 'made for the movie' clothes that look so authentic, you'll think it's 1978!





 
 
 Con man, Irving Rosenfeld (Christian Bale) meets an attractive young woman Sydney Prosser (Amy Adams) at a pool party.
 
 
One of the 1970s re-creations: a genuine macramé swimsuit
  
 
 Ms. Prosser is wearing a macramé swimsuit, in an ivory shade that only a stunning redhead could wear well. Irving: paunchy, balding and wearing the "leisure suit" so popular in the late 1970s, is instantly smitten.
 
 
 
 
 
 
Rosenfeld tells Prosser that he has a dry cleaning business where all manner of terrific dresses are forgotten and left behind. She can have her pick of the crop.
 
 
Sydney models a Diane von Furstenberg wrap dress
 
 
Amy Adams' try-on in the back room of the dry cleaners
  
 
 Sydney and Irving decide to form a partnership. She is smart as well as beautiful, and possesses just what his con operation needs: a touch of class. 
  
 
Irving and Sydney's "dancing in the streets" gear
 
   
Sydney takes on an alter ego: Englishwoman Lady Edith Greensly, who purports to have British banking connections.  Together, they form "London Associates" and thrive both personally and professionally, working as a team.
  
 
 
Amy Adams wears another version of the DVF wrap...
 
 
 
...and another. This  classic style was introduced in 1974
 
 
 
 Irving is in love with Sydney and she with him.  Meanwhile, back in Long Island, resides wife, Rosalyn Rosenfeld, (Jennifer Lawrence) with  Irving's adoptive young son. An awkward situation just waiting to ignite...
 
 
Jennifer Lawrence as Rosalyn--cleaning in a leopard print top

 
Enter Richie DiMaso (Bradley Cooper), an ambitious FBI agent looking to further his career by busting some dishonest politicians.  Richie arrests Sydney, whom he locks up in solitary for three days.  He is, however, also smitten by this lovely--if dishonest--English rose.



 

 Bradley Cooper as Richie DiMaso-- in bright blue polyester
 
 
 
 
 
Amy Adams in brown wrap dress worn with Bradley Cooper above

 
 
The three soon form an unholy alliance, involving a fake Arab Sheik, the mayor of Camden, New Jersey, Miami-based mobsters and Washington politicos on the take.  FBI money is used to scam and bribe with the phony intention of rebuilding Atlantic City as a gambling mecca. Mayor Carmine Polito, (Jeremy Renner) an honest man, is the only one unaware of the operation.
 
 
 
 
Rosenfeld, Lady Edith and DiMaso walk down Lexington Avenue



Leather dress from the Halston archives



Mayor Polito, a devoted family man, sets up a meeting in an elegant Manhattan restaurant insisting that Rosenfeld bring his wife. Rosalyn is a character and then some, giving Jennifer Lawrence a tour de force acting gig, while looking both sexy and stylish.
 
 
 
At the restaurant: Rosalyn; Dolly Polito; Irving and Mayor Polito

 


Rosalyn's vintage animal print jumpsuit from I. Magnin



 
 An FBI private jet delivers Mayor Polito to meet the Sheik on the tarmac, as Lady Edith/Sydney looks on--chic in vintage hat and fur-trimmed coat.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Sydney, feeling frustrated by Irving's renewed attention to Rosalyn and Carmine's insistence that she accompany him everywhere, calls Richie out for a night at a dance club--bearing a striking similarity to Studio 54.
 
  
 
Made for the movie disco diva dress
 

  
Barely-there disco dress with vintage fur and strappy sandals




The climactic scene takes place at a ritzy Casino party with everyone in attendance and dressed appropriately for the Hustle of a lifetime.

All decked out in a dangerously clingy and revealing white glittery gown,  Rosalyn flirts with a junior mobster, while his boss holds court in a back room with Irving, Richie and the Sheik.
 
 


 
 
 
 

Aware of her husband's dalliance and furious that Sydney has shown up with Richie, she plans a little payback of her own.

 
 
 




Sydney and Roslyn have a confrontation in the ladies room. Amy Adams sparkles in a dazzling gunmetal sequin backless halter dress.







 
At the Casino: Amy Adams as Sydney/Edith; Bradley Cooper as Richie DiMaso; Jeremy Renner as Carmine Polito; Christian Bale as Irving Rosenfeld and Jennifer Lawrence as Rosalyn Rosenfeld. 







There's more--but--Crème de la Crème reveals no endings.  Ergo, if you haven't already--boogie on down to see American Hustle!
 
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January 03, 2014

"OH, YOU BEAUTIFUL DOLL" Joan Crawford


Joan Crawford was one of the best-dressed film actresses of all time. She was muse to great photographers like George Hurrell as well as to brilliant MGM designer, Adrian.
Joan wrapped in a garland of her beloved gardenias, 1935
Joan, like many other glamorous stars of the 1930s and 1940s inspired Paper Dolls, one of film, fashion & frivolity's favourite things:
Bra, step-ins and corselette--lingerie of the era
 The movie that each outfit is taken from is written at the side of the garment.


Famous Roles



From beach to boudoir








Best-Dressed Joan!





After Dark!







This is one of the loveliest and most accurate collections of Paper Doll film costumes I have ever encountered.

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December 18, 2013

Christmas Present: Greta Garbo in ROMANCE



In 1930, Greta Garbo absolutely dazzled in her second MGM talking picture, Romance. Exquisitely photographed by William Daniels and directed by  the Oscar-nominated Clarence Brown it is truly a Christmas gift worthy of being under any tree.


  


A stunning period piece, Romance tells of Opera Diva Rita Cavallini, who, during the Christmas season, faces a personal crisis. She is falling in love with an earnest young clergyman Tom Armstrong (Gavin Gordon), who does not approve of her lifestyle.





Madame Cavallini has led the life of a free spirited artist, including a long standing affair with millionaire Cornelius Van Tuyl (Lewis Stone).










As always, Garbo shone in the gowns and furs by Adrian. Eugene Joseff designed the jewels, including what might be the longest string of pearls in existence. George Hurrell, one of the masters of glamour photography, did many of the stills. Garbo's incandescent beauty was enhanced with hair and makeup by George Westmore.




The Adrian-designed hat below, with a feather plume on one side, created a fashion sensation. Dubbed the "Empress Eugenie" hat, it was widely copied--at the time of the Great Depression--a tribute to both the costumer and Garbo's style and panache.













The film opens with an amazing scene where Rita jokingly teases young Armstrong, who doesn't realize her identity. Garbo is luminous in an off the shoulder gown and chandelier earrings. This ensemble and scene have inspired many colorized versions, including the ones below.
















Rita and Tom are soon sharing some winter fun, as both fall in love. Here, a fur-clad Garbo for a sledding scene.











Madame Cavallini attempts to change her way of life, even with the disapproval of Armstrong's family.






Increasingly despondent over her conflicted emotions, Rita begins to lose interest in her singing career.










Sensing that he has lost Cavallini, Van Tuyl exits gracefully on New Years Eve, to allow the lovers to be together. The rest is cinematic history.






This is Greta Garbo's movie all the way. Once you get past the concept of the husky-voiced Garbo as an operatic soprano, it is a wonderful experience.
Garbo's warm, witty and touching performance garnered her a well deserved 1930 Academy Award nomination.






So,  treat yourself to a little Romance this holiday season.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year from film, fashion & frivolity!

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August 19, 2013

Camille "a la" Nazimova - Chapter 2



IN PART ONE:

Law student Armand Duval (Rudolph Valentino) met Parisian courtesan Marguerite Gautier, (Alla Nazimova) and was instantly attracted to her.  At her post Opera party, he was horrified by the hangers-on with whom she surrounded herself, as well as by the serious illness she attempted to conceal.
 
Marguerite's consumption (tuberculosis), exacerbated by her party lifestyle, was slowly killing her. Armand, now totally in love, begged Marguerite to quit Paris, saying he would care for her.  Touched by this sincere and caring young man and falling in love herself, Marguerite banished the partygoers from her apartment and had some time alone with Armand.
 

 

THE FOLLOWING SPRING:

Armand, having convinced Marguerite to leave Paris and live in the country, visits, giving her a book, Manon Lescaut, which she treasures, although the story gives her a foreboding of doom.



  
 
 
 
 
 Marguerite's health has improved she is enjoying this new life with Armand. He reads Manon Lescaut to her under the flowering Spring orchard.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Manon Lescaut is a love story that mirrors their own romance. Armand inscribes the volume for Marguerite, proclaiming his love, and it becomes her most prized possession.
 
 
 
Colorized frame of Marguerite and Armand 
 
 
 
 
 
A visit from Armand's father (William Orlamond) brings the bliss to a grinding halt. Citing the honor of the Duval family, he tells Marguerite she must let Armand go--permanently. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Devastated, Marguerite pens a note on the Count de Varville's (Arthur Hoyt) calling card, to leave for Armand and returns to Paris and her former life.
 
 
 
 
 
 
Marguerite, back with de Varville as her "protector", resumes Parisian nightlife. The Lady of the Camellias is back. 
 
 
 
  
 
 
No longer any need to sell off her possessions, Marguerite resumes a life of luxury, fine clothes and parties. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Believing that Marguerite no longer loves him and that their love was just a dalliance for her, Armand hits the Paris scene with a bang. At a trendy new Casino, he takes up with courtesan du moment, Olympe (Consuelo Flowerton). His friend Gaston Rieux (Rex Cherryman), knowing that he is acting out of hurt and pain, keeps a watchful eye on Armand. 
 
 
 
 

 
 
Inevitably, one night Marguerite arrives at the Casino with de Varville.  Gentlemanly Gaston, who is now engaged to Nichette (Patsy Ruth Miller), greets the lady in what might have been an awkward moment. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
At the gaming table, de Varville mocks Armand--saying that he has 'beginner's luck'.  In spite of this, Armand breaks the bank, while Olympe fawns. 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
Seeing Marguerite sitting alone, Armand approaches her in an attempt to change her mind and resume their relationship. He is still in love with her and she with him. 
 
 
  
 
  
 
 
The tenderness fades when Marguerite recalls her promise to Armand's father. She  lies to Armand, telling him that she loves the Count de Varville. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Armand's ardor turns to rage and he publicly humiliates a shattered Marguerite. 
 
 

 
 
Unable to look into the pained, angry eyes of the man she loves, Marguerite turns her head away.  Their great love seems to be truly over. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 De Varville's interests wander and Marguerite gives up life as a courtesan, as her health plummets.  Soon, she is destitute and bedridden, accompanied only by her devoted maid (Elinor Oliver). Newlyweds Gaston and Nichette come to call, horrified by the condition in which they find Marguerite. All of her possessions have been taken away to be sold at auction, save her volume of Manon Lescaut, which she pleaded with the collectors to keep.
 
 
 
 
 
 
Armand's father, in a moment of guilt, reveals his part in what has happened to Marguerite. Armand is shocked and remorseful.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Marguerite begs her maid and visitors, "Let me sleep. I am happy." as she clutches Manon Lescaut to her bosom. 
 
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*Be sure to read PART ONE of my blog re this wonderful film. Also, check out my blog post on Natacha Rambova, who did all the Costumes and Art Direction. Rudolph Valentino and Nazimova give amazing performances. See the DVD, for the full effect, if you can!