Camille 'a la' Nazimova

 

In 1921, actress Alla Nazimova teamed with designer Natacha Rambova to  film a modern dress version of  'La Dame aux camelias' by Alexandre Dumas fils. Nazimova had been a smash hit on Broadway, starring in Ibsen's A Doll's House and Hedda Gabler--even having a theatre named after her.

 

 

 

Alla had met Rambova when Natacha took her sketches to the Metro Studio for the planned film, Aphrodite.  When Aphrodite was shelved due to censorship fears, Alla Nazimova needed a hit movie--badly. 

The two talented women went to work on a new project: a modern dress version of "La Dame aux camelias". Natacha would be responsible for the sets and costumes. Nazimova would play Marguerite and a handsome young actor named Rudolph Valentino would play the key role of Armand Duval.

 

The Film:
 
Chapter One: The Opera and Marguerite's Party

 

Marguerite Gautier is a Parisian courtesan whose life of parties, nightlife and suitors is often interrupted by bouts of consumption (tuberculosis) from which she is suffering.

 



Alla Nazimova as Marguerite Gautier

Sincere young Law student Armand Duval (Rudolph Valentino), first sets eyes on Marguerite at the Opera, with his best friend, the sophisticated Gaston Rieux (Rex Cherryman).

"...across a crowded room"-Rudolph Valentino spies Nazimova

Gautier is surrounded by an entourage, including the wealthy Count de Varville (Arthur Hoyt). Nevertheless, Armand is immediately attracted to the flashy party girl. 

 

Valentino, Rex Cherryman, Nazimova and Arthur Hoyt



 

 

Camellia covered wrap by Natacha Rambova

Marguerite whispers into the ears of de Varville  when she notices Armand looking over at her.

 

 

The entourage returns to Marguerite's apartment for a post-Opera party.  The Deco-inspired design of these two rooms is considered a cinematic coup, even today. 

 

 

 

 

Marguerite's apartment: all Art Deco curves and Camellias

 

 

Feeling ill, Marguerite retires to her bedroom until the cough subsides. Note the camellias on the bed, vanity and even on the wall.  Rambova used them everywhere.

 

 

 

 

Marguerite recovers from a coughing spasm in her bedroom

 

  

 

 

Time to return to the guests (note the round bed!)

  

 

 

Prudence brings Gaston and Armand to the party

 

 

 

 

 

 

Marguerite hams it up while de Varville and Armand look on

 

 

 

 

 

Marguerite asks de Varville and his hangers-on to leave

 

 

 

 

 

 

Detail of the above...

 

 

  

Once they are alone, Marguerite and Armand...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

 

 To be continued...

 

Natacha Rambova: Portraits of an Artist

 

While researching a post on the 1921 film "Camille", I was struck by the brains, creativity and beauty of the costume and set designer, Natacha Rambova.

 

 

 

 

The exotic bohemian look of Natacha Rambova

 

  

Natacha was born Winifred Kimball Shaughnessy in Salt Lake City on  January 19, 1897. At a young age, her mother packed her off to boarding school in England after she married Edgar de Wolfe, brother of famed interior designer and society maven, Elsie de Wolfe.

 

While in Europe, 'Wink' as she was nicknamed, developed a passion for the ballet.  Her heroes were Anna Pavlova, Tamara Karsavina and Vaslav Nijinsky.  She met and fell in love with a lesser player in the Ballets Russes, Theodore Koslov who would impact her life for years to come.

 

 

 Theodore Koslov in 1912

 

 

Koslov was a handsome ladies' man. He manipulated the young female dancers and wannabe dancers like men on a chessboard. Winifred, at the age of 17, changed her name to Natacha Rambova, took up ballet and became Koslov's lover.

 

 

 

They returned to the United States where Koslov named his dance troupe The Russian Imperial Ballet.

 

 

 

Natacha was tall for the dance: 5'8", but had amazing skills in pantomime not to mention her genius in costume and set design. 

 

 

A rare photo of Rambova with her hair down

 

2011-Cover girl looking very native American

Natacha's mother had expected her to take up her position in society when she returned to America. Rambova held firm; she was a dancer.

Natacha dances a pantomime 'en pointe'

 

Rambova's relationship, both personal and professional, continued with Koslov. He took advantage of the amazing creative force this young woman had, allowing her to design costumes and sets and, even dancing with her while taking all the credit and garnering the glory for himself. 

 

 

Natacha Rambova and Theodore Koslov in "The Aztec Dance"

 

Natacha was a stunning beauty.  She kept her auburn hair long, parted in the middle, wrapped and  tied with turbans and headbands. Koslov had instructed her to always wear flat shoes because of her height.  She favoured artsy, flowing dresses which gave her a distinctly bohemian air.

Looking rather Garbo-esque

When the movies lured the Russian Imperial Ballet to Hollywood, Natacha went along. Koslov's troupe would never have had the professionalism without her creative input, including her dancing.

An unconventional beauty and style

Koslov found a friend and fan in Cecil B. De Mille, who gave him small roles in some of his early films. Rambova continued to create fabulous sets and costumes. There is no doubt that Koslov took full credit for these.

 

The pensive artist before a work of art 

Natacha's unconventional hair styles seldom wavered far from braided or knotted "do's", with headbands, scarves and turbans to accentuate her beautiful hair. Below, an assortment of hair jewelry as well as some dazzling ear bobs adorn her perfect features:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Natacha Rambova's bohemian, arty style made her stand out in a crowd, and often misunderstood. She wore flat shoes and walked with her toes pointing outward. Future husband, Rudolph Valentino, joking referred to her as 'Anna Pavlova'.  But Natacha wore (regular) clothes well; she was not covering flaws in her figure.

 

 

Natacha in turban and jeweled spaghetti strap dress



 

 

 

Natacha Rambova always had a kind of style that was both esoteric and eclectic--unique to extremely creative people.

 

 

 Natacha wears a pleated Mariano Fortuny sheath



 

 

 

  

 A dramatic one shoulder ensemble by Paul Poiret

 

 

 

 

By some stroke of good fortune, one day Natacha delivered her sketches to the film studio personally, beating Koslov to the punch.  The rest is film history. Cecil B. DeMille and others not only marveled at her beauty, but recognized a major talent in art direction. She would go on to meet and work with Alla Nazimova on ground breaking projects such as 'Camille' and 'Salome' as well as marrying Rudolph Valentino, managing his career and turning him into the first major male sex symbol of the twentieth century. 

 

 

 

 

A 1925 portrait by Paul Ivanovitch

 

 

 

 

Little Winifred Shaughnessy had come a long way from Salt Lake City, but--there was still much more to come... 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

TWIGGY AT BIBA: RETRO DECO STYLE

In the early 1970s BIBA on the Kings Road in London was THE place to shop, browse and just BE.  The film "Bonnie and Clyde" had started a trend toward retro 1920s and 1930s fashion and makeup: draping, turbans; dark lips; smoky eyes. The store itself was a masterpiece of Art Nouveau and Art Deco interior design and in the style of old Hollywood.

These photos of Twiggy taken inside the BIBA Emporium c. 1973, are now rare classics:

Cloche hat in buttery soft shades

 

 

 

A turbaned Twiggy in dramatic shades of makeup

 

Ultra-glam in black sequins inside the BIBA Emporium

A pensive Twiggy with stylish headband and centre-parted hairdo

Peignoir on animal print round bed

A boldly-accessorized Twiggy in lame hood

A stunning gold satin button-front ensemble

A  dreamy shot of Twiggy in a softly-draped turban

Curly-haired Twiggy with  equally sexy cheetah Teddy bear

A gorgeous skullcap

Quintessential 1920s: Raccoon Coat and Cloche hat 

Amazing BIBA interiors and a stunningly sophisticated Twiggy

 

 

 

 

 

In a full length hooded fake cheetah coat,Twiggy stands at the opulent Egyptian themed doors to the fitting rooms at BIBA 

 

BIBA closed its doors in the mid 1970s. Twiggy continued with modeling and acting careers.

 

**********************

Mermaid Metamorphosis

It all started with a cruise.  I packed my one and only black swimsuit and was off for a week of the western Caribbean aboard the Holland America Line's Ms. Nieuw Amsterdam.

 

Part One: (NVS) No Visible Swimsuit

 
 

The first stop was Grand Cayman Island. Below, drying off in the sun after the Dolphin Encounter. To emulate a wetsuit and protect my skin from the sun, I wore leggings and a black tee, with my swimsuit underneath. I had packed SPF 60, but was taking no chances with my pale skin.

 

 

Same idea at the Mayan Ruins.  We'd been instructed to cover up against the mosquitoes and the sun.  Thought I was the coolest kid, with my Converse All-Stars, yoga pants and striped, floppy sunhat. TYR black swimsuit, again, worn underneath in case an opportunity to swim came up.



 

 

My outlook was in for a big change.  After snorkeling in Roatan, Honduras (one of the best places in the world to do so), I noticed that I was the only one who didn't have any new colour in my face.  Everyone else looked fresh and alive.  I looked like an out of place Goth girl.  What to do?

 

 

Part Two:  T-Y what?

 

I ditched the SPF 60, bought some 15 and 30 and ceased and desisted the "wetsuit" look.  The attitude adjustment was almost complete:  just add sun and surf...

 

TYR make a very nice "for real swimming" line of suits.  My heretofore invisible black one was a "training suit" which meant it didn't feel or fit like a suit of armour and, had pretty crossed straps and a low cut in back.

 

Aboard the Catamaya catamaran, I added some fun earrings:

 

 

 



 

 

 

Part Three:  Will that be Speedo or Nike?

 

Back in Toronto, where much to my chagrin, it was still winter, I went hunting for swimsuits. Sporting Life and Aquasport (of Montreal) were saviours.

 

I still had a prejudice, common to many serious swimmers, that suits had to be of the "speedo" type.  Happily, I found that many of them were reversible, and, Nike in particular, was making some interesting styles. 

 

 

 

My favourite new suit was a reversible Nike with very low cut back and sides as well as crossed straps in back.  Below the watermelon pink (they call it siren red), reversible to a black and white abstract print.

 

 

 

 

Here, the solid black, reversible to red and black abstract print (the suit also comes in yellow and green versions). It is extemely comfortable to wear as well as to swim in, and dries quickly.

 

 

 

 

 

The straps can be easily flipped down, and the suit 'rolled' for sunbathing. The reverse side shows up as a contrasting band and creates an illusion of straplessness.  If you need to swim or snorkel, turn it up again in seconds.

 

 



 

 

 

 

 

Not every purchase went so swimmingly.  The neon pink, reversible to black Speedo brand suit, was too high in front---almost to the collarbone, scratchy, and had an awkward fit.  It bunched and ballooned in the water.  Even the skinny crossed straps in back couldn't save it. They felt tight and uncomfortable.  Speedo called this suit "flower power".  What a shame!

 

 

Part Four:  Breaking Away 

 

 

 It was now March. I'd been to a few sunny destinations, with more planned.  Seeing the sexy, pretty swimwear on the beaches had inspired me to look for something completely different.

 

The first suit that caught my eye was this  strapless, ruffled mermaid look from H&M.

 

 

 

 

 

 

It took some serious nerve to wear this electric, lime green creation, which made for an interesting tan triangle on your chest.  That said, I bought one in black as well.  The 'retro' style was a lot of fun and a complete change.

 

 

It wore well, if a bit slow to dry. Upon discovering (accompanied by much booing and hooing) that I'd left it in Cuba, I raced out with only four hours sleep to buy another, when I returned to Toronto. This suit shall always be my 'Havana Lana' dubbed favourite.

 

 

Below, some pretty birds make the black one look less 'basic'.

 

By this time I'd become superstitious.  I felt that each destination had to have a new swimsuit.  The pickings were slim:  finally I looked at the American Apparel online store, and, found a rare gem.  Poppy red and black; geometrically cut and sewn; strapless.

 

 

 

The suit is comfortable, both in and out of the water and quick drying.  It was the only one that got a compliment from the jaded girls at the Photo Shop (they see all the fabulous styles).

 

 

Part Five:  A bit OCD about Bathing Suits

 

 

Finally the stores were beginning to get stock.  H&M again proved to be a gold mine.  They are reasonably-priced and stylish to a fault.

 

 

Below, a hot pink strapless suit from H&M that I just adore(d).  Sadly it couldn't stand up to the salt water and hot sun of Mexico.  It faded and the colour ran, so is presently enjoying an ill-deserved early  retirement.

 



 

Conclusion:  You've come a long way, speedo-baby!

 

 

One shouldered H&M purple suit with cut-out peek-a-boo sides. Makes for an interesting tan line (or inaugural sun BURN, if you're not ultra-careful).  With funky leopard print sunglasses to carry along the theme, I called it "Sheena of the Jungle".

 

 

 

 

******************************************

Photos taken in Grand Cayman Island, Mexico, Punta Cana DR and St. Maarten.  The monkeys, toucan and parrots added colour and fun. Thanks to the photographers:  Barbara, Julia, Alberto and Nico!.