A Most Stylish Year: Armani for Jessica Chastain

A Most Violent Year is a 2014 film set in New York City of 1981, recounting a critical period in the lives of Abel Morales (Oscar Isaac) and his wife Anna (Jessica Chastain).

Morales, who is ambitious but essentially an honest man, owns a heating oil company which is being ambushed by an unseen enemy. His plans to purchase prime property on the East River require huge loans. To add to Abel's problems, the Assistant District Attorney suspects Morales of having ties to organized crime and is stacking up charges against him. 

Costuming for director J.C. Chandor's period piece is credited to Kasia Walicka-Maimone, but the wardrobe of the upwardly mobile Anna Morales was designed by master tailor and couturier Giorgio Armani.

 

Above and below:  Posters for the movie, showing Abel and Anna Morales at their early 1980s stylish best.

Giorgio Armani's wardrobe for Jessica Chastain on display:

Below:  Abel and Anna share an embrace as they move into a plush new home. Jessica Chastain wears Giorgio Armani's intricately seamed  leather jacket with matching belt, oversize purse and high boots. The outfit is also shown in the display photo above.

 

The Morales' daughter's Birthday celebration is interrupted by an unexpected visit from the Assistant District Attorney (David Oyelowo) who has a warrant to search their new mansion.  Anna asks him to wait until she has sent home the young guests with their goodie bags.

Above and below:  Anna wears Giorgio Armani's deep V-necked wrap dress with a cascading hemline, accessorized by a long, pearl-studded chain. Abel makes the male fashion of turtleneck sweater look downright smart and sexy.

Below:  A furious Anna shows her husband the loaded revolver she discovered her young daughter wielding. Her tailored satin shirt is decorated with a chain of gold and mother of pearl loops.

 

 

In a perfect crisp white shirt and no style slouch himself, Abel comforts Anna. Another view of her satin shirt, chain necklace with matching gold earrings and hairband.

 

Above and below:  Side view of Abel in camel hair coat.  Anna wears the de rigeur white satin shirt, shoulder bag and gorgeous black onyx beaded pendant. 

Coral padded shoulder (an '80s 'must') shirt and blue jeans on the lovely Jessica Chastain.  Oscar Isaac's charcoal grey suit is worn with a black turtleneck sweater. Just your average upwardly mobile couple relaxing...

Above: Anna studies the finances in a sleeveless satiny blouse knotted high on the neck.  The apparatus under her right hand is called an "adding machine".

 

Above: So 1981 haute, it hurts--Anna dressed to impress (and snag that big loan) in olive brocade, padded shoulder jacket, plunging, button-front bustier and long skirt--nicely finished off with a braided tie belt.

 

Above:  David Oyelowo, wearing strictly-on-business dark charcoal, and Jessica Chastain chat. Anna's white Armani maxi-coat is so stunningly crafted you cannot take your eyes away when she sports it onscreen.

 

 

Filmed on location in New York City, the actors needed warm outerwear. Ms. Chastain's wide lapelled, belted and buckled pure white Armani coat is the stuff of legend. Oscar Isaac's crisply tailored camel coat is more subdued but equal in sartorial splendor.

This fascinating, noir-ish film is beautifully shot in subdued hues and on location in parts of the Big Apple that still resemble the 1980s--when walls and subways were covered by graffiti.

 

A Most Violent Year was released on DVD April 7, 2015.

 

I give it the Crème de la Crème thumbs up.

 

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Miriam Hopkins in Pre-Code Mode

 

 

 

 In 1930, at the height of Hollywood's Pre-Code era, Miriam Hopkins starred in her first film at Paramount studios. Resident costumer and one of the 20th Century's most creative designers, Travis Banton, dressed her in gowns of  velvet, satin, sequins and lame. Whether she played the good girl or bad girl, Hopkins possessed an aura of upper class sophistication, making her a true Pre-Code paradox. 

 

 

Fast and Loose, 1930:

 

Wealthy Marion Lenox of  the Long Island Lenoxes, falls for handsome Henry Morgan, an auto mechanic, much to the chagrin of her parents.  Who could resist her--in these pale, shimmery satins?

Miriam Hopkins as Marion Lenox

To add insult to injury, Marion's brother, Bertie, brings home a chorus girl--played by Carol Lombard, whose screen name was changed by an error in the credits to "Carole".

 

With Henry Wadsworth, who plays "Bertie" Lenox

 

Fluffy-haired Miriam in satin with wrap

Miriam/Marion with Charles Starrett as 'Henry Morgan'

The Smiling Lieutenant, 1931:

 

As Princess Anna, Miriam Hopkins is treated to a 'lingerie makeover' (how Pre-Code), courtesy of Claudette Colbert--all for the romantic attentions of the Lieutenant, played by Maurice Chevalier.

Softly pretty as Princess Anna

"See, sweetie, that's how it's done."






Captivating in lacy new lingerie

 

Slinky new lingerie--side view

The finished product: soft fur wrap over sequin beaded gown.

Is the Lieutenant impressed?  (See film title.)





24 Hours, 1931:

 

Rosie Duggan (Hopkins) is a night club chanteuse having an affair with alcoholic married man, Jim Towner (Clive Brook).  Rosie's ex, mobster Tony Bruzzi (Regis Toomey), is not thrilled and wants Rosie back.



Miriam Hopkins has a tete a tete with Clive Brook

 

 

 

 

Brook and Hopkins as Jim and Rosie

 

 

Miriam Hopkins' two-toned sequined gown in the nightclub  while a change for her, is a total knockout.

Tony  Bruzzi (Regis Toomey) puts the moves on Rosie



Belting out a tune atop a truly 'grand' piano



  

Sadly, complications and misunderstandings lead to Rosie's murder and Jim Towner is the main suspect.

   

 

 

 

Above, Rosie before and after the murder. For the scene, Travis Banton designed a shawl-collared, satin wrap dressing gown.

 

 

 

 

Two Kinds of Women, 1932: 

 

 

 Emma Krull, the daughter of a southern Senator, travels to the Big Apple and falls in love with a married man, Jim Bishop, played by Phillips Holmes. 

 

 

 

Miriam with Phillips Holmes

 

 

 

 

Jim Bishop and Emma enjoy the Manhattan night life

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hopkins as Emma in bias cut satin by Travis Banton

  

  

 

  

Dancers in the Dark, 1932:

Gloria Bishop, a taxi dancer, is engaged to marry 'nice guy' Floyd Stevens.  Bandleader Duke Taylor thinks she isn't good enough to marry his pal.  Gloria's ex, gangland type Louie Brooks, complicates matters by trying to win her back and travel to Mexico with him.

Miriam with Jack Oakie as Bandleader Duke

Taxi-dancing with George Raft as old flame and mobster, Louie

Nice guy, William Collier Jr., as fiance Floyd

Miriam's Gloria Bishop dances in a stunning low-cut and backless dress with sequin detail and straps. 

The World and the Flesh, 1932:

During the Russian Revolution, famous Ballerina Maria Vaskaya (Hopkins) is terrorized by the brutish Kylenko, played by George Bancroft.

Maria Vaskaya dazzles in fur-trimmed paisley beaded velvet

Off the shoulder velvet gown with jeweled straps

Below, two classic Lobby Cards featuring George Bancroft and Miriam Hopkins--wearing the above velvet gown, beautifully accessorized with a glittery hairband--a Hopkins signature.

Lobby Card #1

Lobby Card #2


 

Miriam as Maria Vaskaya-velvet gown with string of pearls

 

 

 

Trouble in Paradise, 1932:

Master thief Gaston Monesu (Herbert Marshall) meets and falls for beautiful pickpocket Lily (Miriam Hopkins).  Together they high tail it to Paris, planning to liberate some wealthy folks from their riches--specifically famous Perfumer Madame Colet (Kay Francis). 

 

 

Lily dazzles in Travis Banton's cowl neck, bias-cut gown



Chic hairband and brooch; Gaston approves...



Early 1930s prerequisite: back detail to die for



 

Better view of Lily's cowl neck, pleating and  brooch



Miriam as Lily in white satin with fur wrap

 

 

Satin, lace trimmed peignoir with bell sleeves

The Story of Temple Drake, 1932:

Southern wild child Temple Drake falls in with some shady characters, specifically bootlegger and mobster, "Trigger" (Jack LaRue), rather than marry her intended, lawyer Stephen Benbow (William Gargan).

 

This adaptation of William Faulkner's novel, Sanctuary, shocked America.  Not only was it banned in some states but expedited the enforcement of the impending Hays Code.

William Gargan, Miriam Hopkins, Jack LaRue

Gargan and Hopkins with Lack LaRue in shadow

Lobby Card showing Temple's strappy bodice

Temple looking good in satin gown with fur trimmed wrap

Design for Living, 1933:

 

Gilda Farrell, a commercial artist, meets not one, but two available, attractive men, who just happen to be best friends. The three hit it off and decide to live together in Paris.

 

 

 

 

Miriam Hopkins, Frederic March and Gary Cooper

 

 

  

 

Portrait by Eugene Robert Richee

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gilda's glittery gown: low-cut sweetheart neck; cap sleeves; bias cut

 

 

Gilda's signature gown-bodice detail

 

 

 

  

A portrait of Gilda in the garden

 

 

 

Bonus--Eugene Robert Richee negatives: 

 

 

 

In 2010, these four original camera negatives of Miriam Hopkins, by photographer Eugene Robert Richee for Paramount Pictures, were sold at auction for US $1200.00.  They are dated 1931-2. 

 

 

 

Portrait

 

 

 

 

 

Satin gown with cascading ruffle-costume still, circa 1931-2

 

 

 

Above dress with jacquard cover-up

 

 

 

 

 

Portrait

 

 

 

Publicity photo circa 1932

Miriam Hopkins, while not the quintessential Pre-Code starlet, added glamour and sophistication to the genre.  As he had done earlier for Evelyn Brent, Travis Banton gowned Miriam to elegant perfection.  Eugene Robert Richee iced the already yummy cake with his exquisite photographs.  The result was a delicious,  simultaneously nice and naughty treat. 

Definitely Crème de la Crème!


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